Bra Making Basics: Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

How to adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye bra fastener

You’ve bought your sewing pattern and your chosen hook and eye bra fastener is too big (or too small) for your sewing pattern – what do you do? Don’t panic! It’s pretty easy to adjust your bra pattern… Grab a pen, some paper and a ruler, this will take you less than 5 minutes.

Step 1 – Trace out your pattern

You’ve traced out your pattern pieces and the back wing pattern piece looks a little bit like this… Before you cut into your lovely fabric, you need to alter your pattern pieces to fit.

Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

Step 2 – Subtract the seam allowance

Measure the length of the back section where the hook and eye fastener will be attached. Subtract the seam allowance from this number.

Measure how long your hook and eye fastener is and calculate the amount you need to add or subtract.

Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

Some bra sewing patterns do not have a seam allowance along the curved section of the back wing. Generally, buy ultram online this depends on the type of elastication that your bra pattern uses, if your bra pattern suggests you use zig zag stitching along this section, you know you will have a seam allowance there. If your bra pattern asks you to sew elastic directly to this section along the curve, you will most likely not have seam allowance here.

Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

Step 3 – Adjust your pattern piece by adding extra

If you have a larger hook and eye, increase the back section by the amount you need and remember to add back the  seam allowance(s) as well.  Use a French curve or something similar to draw in a smoothly shaped curve.

Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

Step 4 – Adjust your pattern piece by taking away

If you have a smaller hook and eye, you can follow this method to decrease your pattern piece too. Follow the above steps, calculate the difference and reduce the back section accordingly – remember to account for your seam allowances. Draw in a smooth curve with a French curve or something similar.

Adjust your bra pattern to fit your hook and eye

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