So you’ve got your pattern and it’s all printed and cut out in the right size. Ready to start making the short Kyoto kimono?
So before you start, it’s best to pre-wash your fabric the way you intend to wash your finished kimono jacket. This is probably the most important bit out of the whole process. Nothing’s worse than shrinking something after you’ve made it or finding that the colour runs after you’ve washed it.
Also and in particular if you are using a pretty lightweight fabric like silk, make sure you are using a new, small machine needle (in size 70/10) so that you don’t have big gaping holes in your seams.
Once that’s all sorted and you’ve cut out your fabric out, you’re ready to go.
This pattern was designed to feature a dropped shoulder like a traditional kimono. What that means is that yes, the back bodice piece will be a little bit longer ultram online sale than the front bodice piece, so don’t panic!
- Staystitch the front neckline and back neckline – These bits are essentially on the bias, so if you handle them a bit too much, you’ll stretch out the neckline and end up with a neckline that has grown much larger than the collar piece it’s designed to fit.
- Sew the front and back bodice sections together at the sides and shoulder line, matching the seams and notches.
- Press open your seams! – a little insider industry tip is that you should always press your seams open from the outside of your garment.
- Then finish off your seams! Because of the curved armhole, a French seam isn’t the best idea because it won’t give a nice curve. Although if you’re really determined and you trim your seam allowances really closely, you might be able to get away with it.